Wednesday, May 31, 2023

Paris Ponderings

Once upon a time, nearly 14 years ago, I lived in Paris for seven weeks one summer.  Doesn't that sound fabulous? It was.  Well, mostly, as with all places it took a bit to adapt, but once I did I was forever smitten. My mom asked what I would send someone (possibly her) to see if they were only in Paris for a few days.  These are slightly geared to my mom's tastes, but here is what I decided on:

1) Musee D'Orsay-- Yes, less famous than the Louvre, but more light filled, and I love it.

2) Il Saint Louis -- this is the Island next to the island where Notre Dame is.  It is totally different, quiet, and perfect for musing and observing life.  I spent a lot of time here or on the facing shore of the Seine.

3) Pere Lachaise -- My mom likes cemeteries  history, and interesting gravestones.  This is the best and the resting spot for some of her favorite composers too.

4) Notre Dame (Ile de la Cite) - Cliche, perhaps, but I love it.  For the architecture, for the history, tradition, for the holiness.  I went to mass there more than once as my school was just across the river.  I think possibly I was the most connected to Catholicism when I was abroad.  I like that I can walk into a Catholic church anywhere and be at home.  Also, if you go just a few blocks south you can see the Sorbonne where I studied.  Technically, my classroom building was closer still, just across the river and up the block about 1/2 way.

5) Find a cafe you like and sit  for a long time with chocolat chaud and a pastry. People watch.

6) Get up early and wander.  Watch the water run down the streets to clean the edges.  Sit in the park, any park really, and soak it up, how it is different and the same. My favorite is Luxembourg Gardens, but Tuileries Gardens, and  Place des Voges are lovely too.  The very first garden I visited was Jardin du Plantes---seriously.  It is a bit less artsy than some, but interesting.  (NOTE: I lived and studied in the 4th arrondisement so many of my favorites are there).

7.  Take a boat tour or dinner cruise on the Seine.  This takes you past lots of sites like the Eiffel Tour without having to walk as much.  If the cruise is at dusk, so much the better. Pay attention to bridges.

8.  Eat lots of bread, pastries, and cheese --- pain au chocolat, pain au raisin, Paris-brest, etc... Try bakeries - English will work, but be brave and try french too.  Wander a grocery story.  It is fascinating to see how they are the same and different.

9. Le Tour Eiffel and Champs du Mars / Trocadero, the Louvre--- I do sort of think that if you don't go you will regret it and may be feel like you haven't had the complete experience.



I've been to Paris again since that first long trip, but neither time did I make it to the Rodin galleries, and that is where I plan to go next time.

The bus/metro system are your friend.  You do not have to walk everywhere.  There are TONS Of metro stops and you can buy a pass there that allows you unlimited trips on the bus and train for the period you are in Paris.  It "may" seem tricky, but I suspect with a smart phone or other technologies it will be even easier than when I was there. 

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